The second challenge for the Historical Fornightly is the Centennial challenge. Meaning, making a garment that could be from the 1913s, 1813s, 1713s, etc. This produced a bit of an obstacle for me because not only am I just beginning to build up a historical wardrobe, but I'm also primarily pulling from the 18th century for this year. Why is that a challenge? The early 1700s are a bit of a blank from a research perspective. It's hard to find anything on what kind of clothing was worn during that time.
I ended up starting a facebook thread on this topic on the Historical Fortnightly page, and got a lot of amazing feedback. In particular, there were two garments that came up for the early 1700s. The first was the Mantua, and the second was the Robe Battante (or Volante).
|A particularly beautiful Robe Battante.|
|The Mantua. This is an extant example I found that's the closest to 1713 I could find. It's dated somewhere around 1710.|
|Aside from the lighting making this look like a completely different color. This is a close up of the bustle of the same dress.|
|The top stitching of the cotton twill tape. I used a backstitch for this portion of the petticoat.|
|The underside of my backstitches.|
|Hand stitched hem. I did a basic whip stitch, and only grabbed one thread of linen so that it would be as invisible as possible from the wrong side.|
|I did similar stitching for the pockets' seams.|
|Finished petticoat! I love how it looks and feels. It looks beautiful with my chemise. Again, sorry for the non-extant t-shirt underneath. Like when I made my chemise, I wasn't quite comfortable showing that much skin.|
The Challenge: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial
Fabric: 2 yds. of heavier weight linen that was about 60" wide.
Pattern: None. Just two big rectangles of fabric sewn together. Some slight measuring for the pleats and marking the pocket slits, and a basic eye-balling of the hem and seam allowances. The beauty of linen is I can just press it with my fingers. No need for pre-ironing my hems!
Notions: Linen thread, cotton twill tape.
How historically accurate is it?: I’d say 9/10. It’s completely hand sewn in period-correct stitches with the linen being accurate, but depending on what part of the world I'm in the cotton twill tape might not be accurate. Cotton was being used in the states, but it wasn't until almost the mid-18th century that the cotton bans lifted in Europe.
Hours to complete: Somewhere around 10-15. I haven't been very good about guaging how long the hand sewing takes, and I was in the midst of studying for a major exam that I just passed today! Yay!
First worn: Day of being finished, and then again for photos. January 16, 2013.
Total cost: I used the linen thread from my last project, the cotton tape was $2.50 for 10 yds. so it should get me through a couple projects, and the linen was a total of about $20. So $22.50.
|Pocket slits! I can't wait to have actual pockets!|